Fashion and dress collections

The London Library has a vast array of books, periodical, journals and online resources that can help support research in Fashion, Costume and Textiles.

Scope of the collection

The London Library has a vast array of books, periodical, journals and online resources that can help support research in Fashion, Costume and Textiles. However, you may find that your search for resources may require you to visit many different areas of the Library. This guide aims to pinpoint the most useful areas of the Library’s collections for research into:

  • History of Clothing & Fashion.
  • Designers, Brands & Fashion Houses.
  • Textiles and the Textile Industry.
  • Textile Arts & Crafts.
  • Jewellery, Ornament & Accessories.
  • Costume in the Performing Arts.
  • Fashion Media.
  • Fashion Retail.
  • Cosmetics, cosmetology & perfume.

Founded in 1841, the Library’s collection has grown each year and we hold titles from the late 18th century onwards on the open shelves.  As a result, our collection reflects the evolution and changes in thinking in a particular subject and does mean that you may come across titles which contain ideas and vocabulary that would be considered abhorrent today. The collection continues to grow with some 5,000 new titles being added each year. As we develop the collection, we seek to ensure that the controversial topics of today are represented from all sides of a debate.

Understanding shelfmarks

The Library’s collection is divided into broad subject areas (e.g. History, Literature, and Topography) and then into smaller areas, arranged alphabetically. Within each subject category, books are arranged alphabetically by their author’s surname or, in the case of edited collections or books with multiple authors, by their title.  Check the catalogue record for the ‘shelved under’ information. 

In order to make the most effective use of space, the collection is also shelved by size. Check the end of shelfmarks for the notations 4to. (Quarto), small folio, folio, and folio extra large, which may indicate a different place to look for the books.   

Collection guide image

Above is an example of a book record from the catalogue.  Here you can see that the book is shelved under the author’s name and that it is available (i.e. on the shelf) at in the Art section (A.), in the sub-section for Dress and then shelved under the author Davies-Strodder.  

Labels on the edges of the shelves will guide you through the section. Some shelfmarks are large and are subdivided further by letters marking the authors’ surnames (or titles in the case of edited collections).  

Books may be requested and put aside ready for collection, but we would always encourage members to browse the shelves and discover books serendipitously. Items from the Library’s Special Collections cannot be borrowed but may be consulted in the Library under supervised conditions, given 72 hours’ notice. 

Books and eBooks

The Library’s collection includes both academic eBooks and other fiction and non-fiction eBooks available through the Libby platform. All academic eBooks will appear in your search results in the Library Catalogue. Those available through Libby are also in our Catalogue but can also be searched separately through the Libby platform, which you also need in order to access these titles.

If you are searching for primary resources as part of your research you may find that you are frequently being directed to shelfmarks that do not appear on any of the floor plans. These are usually Safe collections. To access these collections you will need to ask the staff on the Issue Desk. Many volumes in the safes can be borrowed under a Guarantee Form, however some will need to be invigilated by a member of staff and cannot be taken out of the Library. Staff will be able to inform you which status applies to the items you are looking for.   Invigilation requires at least 72 working hours notice.

Some aspects of research the Library’s collection can help with include:-

History and Culture of Clothing, Fashion & Costume

Within the Library’s book collection, there are several collections and shelfmarks which may contain items of relevance to this field of study. The most important shelfmarks to be aware of are A. Dress (Mezzanine, Central Stack), A. Dress, 4to. (Ground Floor, Art Room) and A. Dress, sm. folio (Mezzanine, Central Stack). This is where you will find the majority of books on the history and culture of clothing and fashion from around the world.

Elsewhere in the Library, you may find it useful to consult the History collection (Level 4-2, Back Stacks), particularly any shelfmarks relating to social history (H. _________, Social &c.) as you may find volumes where clothing and fashion are discussed. In addition, the Art collection also contains works on, amongst other things, the history of jewellery and gems, gold and silver work, fans and snuff boxes!

Designers, Fashion Houses and Clothing Brands

If you are intending to research the creative output of a particular designer or house, your first port of call should be the A. Dress, A. Dress, 4to. and A. Dress, sm. folio shelfmarks. Many designers, houses and brands will be given their own section within the shelfmark (e.g. A. Dress, Dior, 4to. or A. Dress, Biba) meaning that you should be able to find any books we have about their work all in one place on the shelf, including retrospectives, criticism and exhibition catalogues.

If you are searching for biographical works relating to a particular designer, these can be found in the Biography collection, arranged alphabetically by surname. The Biography collection begins on the 4th floor of the Central Stack and ends on the 3rd floor.

The collection includes diaries, letters, memoirs, autobiographies and biographies and is shelved under the surname of the subject. For example, biographical works relating to the designer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel will be found under ‘Biog. Chanel, Gabrielle’. Under each shelfmark, any primary sources (letters, diaries, autobiographies) will be shelved first, followed by any other biographies by third parties. They will be shelved alphabetically according to their author.

It is also worth remembering that collective biographies of members of certain movements, schools or traditions may also be found in ‘Biog. Colls.’ on the 3rd floor of the Central Stack.

Art, Artists & Craftspeople 

The Art collection is usually broken up by media or process including those more generally aligned with craft (see ‘Textiles & Craft’ for more information) as well as Fine Art.  General works including Art History and criticism will be shelved at A. Art (Gen.) (4to., Art Room, 8vo. Mezzanine, T.S. Eliot House). A detailed guide to the Art Collection can also be found at the Issue Desk.

Works relating to the creative outputs of specific artists or craftspeople will usually be found in the Art collection. As in A. Dress, within each shelfmark (e.g. A. Painting, A. Embroidery etc.) books relating to the work of a specific person will first be shelved under their name (e.g. A. Painting, Rubens) and then alphabetically by their author. Please be aware that many artists and artisans will appear in numerous places throughout the collection, depending on the media they are working in. For example, works relating to the artist Henri Matisse can be found in A. Drawing, A. Sculpture, A. Painting and A. Collage.  As with research into individual fashion designers or makers, biographical works relating to an artist or craftsperson will be found in the Biography collection (see above).

Textiles & Crafts

Generally, works on textiles- including their history, culture and trade- are to be found at S. Textiles (Level 6, Back Stacks), S. Textiles, 4to. (Level 5, Back Stacks) and S.Textiles, folio (Level 4, Back Stacks). Also in the Science and Miscellaneous collection you will find S. Cotton (Level 4, 4to. Level 6, Back Stacks), S. Silk (Level 6, 4to. Level 5, Back Stacks) and S. Wool (Level 7, 4to. Level 5) where you will find items that specifically relate to these textiles.

Whilst textiles and the textile industry are to be found in Science and Miscellaneous, processes and crafts traditionally associated with textiles are most likely to be found in the Art collection. A full list of relevant shelfmarks can be found at the end of this guide.

Jewellery, Ornament & Accessories

Researchers interested in jewellery and ornament will frequently find themselves directed to the Art collection. Here you will find several shelfmarks relevant to your area interest including A. Gems &c. (4to. Art Room, 8vo. Mezzanine), A. Gold & Silver Work &c. (4to. Art Room, 8vo. Mezzanine), A. Finger-Rings (4to. Art Room, 8vo. Mezzanine) and A. Ornament &c. (4to. Art Room, 8vo. Mezzanine). At these shelfmarks you will find general works on the history or cultural relevance of jewellery and precious stones and metals, as well as books and catalogues relating to particular collections in addition to works on the history and output of particular jewellers or makers.

Aside from jewellery, the majority of books on fashion accessories will be found in A. Dress. This includes hats and millenary, ties, scarves, bags and purses, umbrellas and parasols, gloves, hair accessories and hosiery. There are some notable exceptions to this, for example works specifically relating to shoes can be found at A. Shoemaking (Mezzanine, Central Stack, 4to. Gallery, Art Room). Meanwhile, watches and other time pieces will be found at A. Clocks (4to. Art Room, 8vo., Central Stack, Mezzanine) whilst fans can be found at A. Fans (4to. Art Room, 8vo. Central Stack, Mezzanine).

Theatrical Costume

Works on costume for theatre and performance can be found in several places around the Library. Books about the design and production of costumes for performance (particularly theatre and film) can be found at the A. Dress shelfmarks. Meanwhile, books about the role of costume in theatrical tradition and staging are more likely to be found in the Literature collection under L. Drama, Hist. of and L. English Drama, Hist. of (both 2nd Floor, Central Stack.). In addition, books about the costuming of dance, in particular ballet, can be found in S. Dance (Level 4, Back Stacks, 4to. Level 6, Back Stacks).

Fashion Media & Journalism

Books on journalism, magazines, and newspapers can be found at S. Newspapers &c. (Level 5, Back Stacks). Some works on the history of newspapers and journalism, particularly where they relate to their role in the history of writing and literature can be found in the Literature collection. Journalistic writings, whether by an individual or anthologies, will also be kept here.

The Library also has many books on fashion photography which can be found at A. Photography (Mezzanine, Central Stack), A. Photography, 4to. (Gallery, Art Room) and A. Photography, sm. folio (Mezzanine, Central Stack). Books which feature the photography of magazines will also be found at this shelfmark, and not at S. Newspapers &c.

Retail

Books on retail and its history are to be found at S. Shops & Shopping (Level 6, Back Stacks). Here you will find general works on the history and culture of shopping and retail, as well as works on the history of specific brands and shops. 
You may also find it useful to consult some many economic journals and reviews to which the Library subscribes, both in print and online. We also offer access to the archives on many major newspapers and magazines including The Times and The Guardian.

Cosmetics, Cosmetology & Perfume

Works on the history and culture of cosmetics, cosmetology and perfumery will all be found in S. Perfumes &c. (Level 5, Back Stacks, 4to. Level 5, Back Stacks). This includes books on the cosmetics industry and particular brands. As with fashion, works on the lives of individual cosmeticians, hairdressers or perfumers can be found in the Biography collection.
If you are researching stage make-up, you will need to look in L. Drama, Hist. of (Gen.).

Journals, eJournals and online resources

History and Culture of Clothing, Fashion & Costume

The Library has subscriptions to many periodicals and journals both in print and online which can assist with research into the history of clothing and fashion. We also have some antiquarian fashion publications in our safe collections, as well as bound back issues of all our print periodicals both past and present in the Periodicals collection (Basement) that can serve as primary sources. Relevant titles include:

  • Costume : the journal of the Costume Society
  • The Lady's Magazine
  • Dress
  • La belle assemblée, or, Bell's court and fashionable magazine
  • London Illustrated News
  • Country Life
  • Vanity Fair
  • Picture Post

Art, Artists & Craftspeople 

Periodicals, Journals and e-Journals
The Library subscribes to most of the major art magazines and journals including Frieze, The Burlington Magazine, Art Monthly and RA : the Royal Academy Magazine.

Theatrical Costume

The Library subscribes to many journals and periodicals, both in print and online, that focus their research on the history of theatre and performance. Titles include:

  • Early Theatre
  • Modern Drama
  • Performing Arts Journal
  • Renaissance Drama
  • Theatre Journal
  • Costume

Other relevant journals and periodicals

  • The American Art Journal
  • Apollo
  • The Art Bulletin
  • Art history
  • Art Journal
  • Crafts
  • Design Issues
  • Design Quarterly
  • Eighteenth - Century Studies
  • History of Photography
  • Journal for Early Modern Cultural Studies
  • Journal of Aesthetics & Art Criticism
  • Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes
  • Journal of Victorian Culture 
  • Metropolitan Museum Journal
  • Modern Art
  • Modern Drama
  • MoMA
  • Oxford Art Journal
  • Renaissance and Reformation
  • Studies in the Decorative Arts
  • Studio 
  • Style
  • Tate
  • Textile History
  • Theatre Journal
  • Victorian Studies
  • Visual Arts Research
  • Visual Culture in Britain
  • Woman's Art Journal

Relevant online resources

  • Oxford Art Online
  • JSTOR
  • Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
  • Arts: Search
  • VADS
  • Times & Sunday Times Digital Archive
  • International Bibliography of Art
  • British Newspaper Archive
  • ProQuest Historical Newspapers: The Guardian and The Observer